Names can take on a life of their own when digital storytelling becomes ubiquitous. The phrase “Kotora Melnkalne” may remind some of a shy artist or a voiceless poet somewhere in the Balkans. The truth is that there is far more to Kotora Melnkalne than that. It is a very enduring poetic (or, better, romantic) alter ego for Kotor, Montenegro.
Combining “Kotor” (the local name) and Melnkalne (the Latvian name for Montenegro), it poetically refers to “Kotor of the Black Mountain”. It also creatively captures the essence of a place where steep, rugged, and jagged limestone cliffs dramatically submerge into the sapphire Adriatic. It is a place where one can feel as if the landscape was designed and constructed by a sculptor. Kotora Melnkalne also symbolizes the spirit of a city that has been a source of inspiration for countless poets, sailors, and dreamers for over 2,000 years.
Cultural Heritage and Early History
Considering Kotora Melnkalne as a living being, her “early life” is not in a maternity ward but rather in the ancient periods of the Illyrian and Roman Empires. The “poetic soul” of Kotora Melnkalne was the result of the strategic importance of the Adriatic coast.
Historical events shaped her character. The Romans laid a grid for her construction, but it was the Venetians (ruling from 1420 to 1797) who adorned her with the stone attire she wears today. The lion of St. Mark, visible on the city walls, serves as a mark of this period. Centuries of Venetian rule fostered a Baroque love and a maritime power that defined the city as a custodian of commerce and art.
The Style of Stone and Sea
The ‘artistic style’ of Kotora Melnkalne is defined by high-contrast drama. She refuses to deliver subtlety. It is a style that focuses on the warm terracotta of the old town’s roofs, the stark grey of the Lovćen massif, and the deep emerald of the bay (often mistaken for a fjord but technically a ria).
Themes of resilience and harmony define her. She is able to endure a catastrophic event such as the 1979 earthquakes and still rebuild. A unique aesthetic is created by the cliffs and the man-made fortifications. The style speaks of ‘splendid isolation’ that has preserved the medieval core of the city.
Notable Masterpieces: Architecture as Art
Every artist holds a brush, and for Kotora Melnkalne, that brush is architecture. “Notable works” describes the physical creations that shape and define the skyline and cultural identity of a location.
The Walls of Kotor
As Kotor’s walls are Melnkalne’s most notable work, they are also among the most impressive achievements of engineering and determination in history. The walls begin in their very own Kotor and stretch for an impressive 4.5 km, winding their way up a steep mountainside to Kotor’s Fortress of San Giovanni.
Cathedral of Saint Tryphon
The Romanesque architectural style of the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon shows that Kotor is the spiritual hub of this architecture. The Cathedral was consecrated in 1166, and is therefore older than many famed cathedrals across Europe. The Cathedral’s uneven towers are a result of an earthquake, which damaged the towers, and repairs and budget constraints that caused the repairs to be incomplete. This allows the Cathedral to stand as a symbol of perfect imperfection.
Our Lady of the Rocks
Another artwork is the church on the manmade island in the bay outside of Kotor’s walls. This piece is a collaborative work. Local legend says that after successful fishing voyages, the fishermen would toss a rock into the bay. Over the course of many voyages, the stones formed the island that is now the site of the church.
The Effects on Kotor’s Cultural Identity
Kotora Melnkalne has changed how we appreciate the culture of Montenegro. It takes the focus away from cruise ships and souvenir stores, encouraging us to feel the “genius loci” of the place.
This personification of the place inspires many modern writers and artists that come to the Bay of Kotor. This is evident in the Kotor Art festival that takes place in the summer. The performers and musicians use the squares of the city as their performance space and as a venue for their acoustics, and show that the city is more than a stage for their talents. When we think of the city as an artistic being, we respect the dignity of its history and its mass tourism.
Exploring Kotor Through Her Eyes
Exploring the city as Kotora Melnkalne means appreciating the culture of Montenegro. You can focus on the details that many people do miss.
- The Cat Community: Kotor is known for its cats, who are the unofficial guardians of the city. They are the living ‘familiars’ of this poetic persona, and can be found relaxing in every piazza that is in the sunny area.
- Железничка and the Zavala Stream: An old abandoned railroad converges at the Zavala Stream, from which pristine waters cascade into crystal-clear pools; it is a magical place where one can watch Dragonflies dance and dare to dip their toes into the icy waters.
- The Secret Squares: Beyond the busy Arms Square, visit the tranquil corners of the Cinema Square and Salad Square, where you can feel the softly humming daily rhythm of the locals.
- The Serpentine Road: For the best view, climb the serpentine road to Njeguši. From here, you can see the complete picture of Kotora Melnkalne, with the way the bay embraces the town and reveals the unique geography that has sheltered it for centuries.
Future Horizons for the Black Mountain
What does this unchanging muse have in store? Kotora Melnkalne’s future projects prioritize sustainability and preservation. As the world begins to appreciate Montenegro’s “hidden gem”, the challenge is to retain originality.
The hope is to transform transient tourism into “slow travel”, inviting guests to stay and discover the histories and respect the stone. The goal is to ensure that the poetic essence of the city, much like its magnificent past, continues to be illuminated by the flourishing of the arts in the future.
The Enduring Legacy
You might not be able to meet Kotora Melnkalne for a coffee, but you can feel her presence. She is the shadow of the mountain at sunset, the St Typhon echoing bells, and the salt in the air of the Adriatic.
When we understand Kotor as an alive, poetic being, we make sure to visit her, not as tourists, but as guests of an enormous, ancient lady. Her legacy is carved in history, and her poem is one that never ends.
